In 1996, Ernst Loosen took over the J.L. Wolf estate so that he could make powerful, traditionally crafted Pfalz wines to complement the light and elegant Dr. Loosen Rieslings he produces in the Mosel. In the classic style of the Pfalz, these wines are more full-bodied than Mosel wines, with higher alcohol and rich flavors of ripe fruit and stone.
The Pfalz region lies between the Haardt Mountains and the Rhine River, directly north of France’s Alsace region. As in Alsace, the mountains protect the area from harsh Atlantic weather, making it one of the warmer and drier areas of Germany. In this climate, achieving full ripeness is possible in nearly every vintage. Mature, fully ripened fruit is the key to making concentrated dry-style wines that have enough body to balance the naturally high acidity.
For Ernst, taking on the J.L. Wolf estate was dêja vu all over again. As with Dr. Loosen, he seized the opportunity to revitalize a once-famous wine estate blessed with old vines in great vineyards. The two estates also have similar locations: The Dr. Loosen estate is in Bernkastel, at the heart of the middle Mosel, while J.L. Wolf is in Wachenheim, at the center of a picturesque wine area known as the Middle Haardt.
The Quality Concept: True Pfalz
Ernst Loosen’s focus at the J.L. Wolf estate is on classic wines from top vineyards. To preserve the naturally high quality of the vineyards, Ernst emphasizes gentle handling through traditional winemaking techniques. This enables him to produce wines that express the pure, authentic terroir of the Pfalz.
J.L. Wolf Estate-Grown Rieslings
Ernst uses an unofficial, Burgundy-style classification of the vineyards at J.L. Wolf, based largely on a vineyard property tax assessment done by the Bavarian government in 1828. Historical accounts of quality and price confirm the first-growth (grand cru) status of the Pechstein vineyard in the village of Forst, and the second-growth (premier cru) Belz vineyard in Wachenheim. In addition, village- (villages) quality vineyards are harvested to produce Wachenheimer Riesling.
The differences between the Prädikat levels (Kabinett, Spätlese, etc.) in the Pfalz are much less dramatic than in the Mosel and other cooler regions. Therefore, only one wine is made from each J.L. Wolf vineyard. The first- and second-growth vineyards normally produce Spätlese, and the village vineyards produce Kabinett.
Villa Wolf Value-Priced Varietals
The Villa Wolf label is used for a value-priced line of varietal wines that show the true character of each variety as it is grown in the warm and sunny Pfalz region. Villa Wolf wines are made from J.L. Wolf estate fruit supplemented with grapes from contracted growers. Varieties include Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Silvaner and Pinot Noir (red and rosé). Like the Dr. L from Dr. Loosen, these are excellent glass-pour wines, as well as great values on the retail shelf.
J.L. WOLF ESTATE-GROWN RIESLINGS
J.L. Wolf Riesling Wachenheimer (village vineyard*)
This comes form third-tier vineyards in the village of Wachenheim. Here, the weathered sandstone soils produce pure, fruit-driven wines with a distinctive stony character.
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J.L. Wolf Riesling Wachenheimer Belz (second-growth vineyard*)
This is the most powerful of all the second-growths. Belz Rieslings have a Loire-like structure and flinty flavor profile from the unusual chalky soil that is only found in this vineyard.
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J.L. Wolf Riesling Pechstein (first-growth vineyard*)
Of J.L. Wolf’s three first-growth sites in the village of Forst, Pechstein is the most assertive. The name refers to the abundant black basalt stones in the soil, which give a firm mineral edge to the wines.
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*Please note: the vineyard classification at J.L. Wolf is an internal rating based on historical records, but is not recognized by German wine law.
VILLA WOLF VARIETAL VALUES
Villa Wolf Pinot Gris
The Pinot Gris variety was first identified in the Pfalz region. Villa Wolf Pinot Gris is made in a full-bodied, dry style with fresh, unoaked fruit and a crisp texture. Half of each vintage is made in large, neutral oak casks for depth and complexity. The other half is done in stainless steel to preserve freshness and enhance the vibrant fruit. An excellent partner for salmon, chicken or pork. “Best Buy” in Wine Enthusiast magazine.
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Villa Wolf Gewürztraminer
The Villa Wolf Gewürztraminer is clean, fruity and wonderfully light on its feet. It shows off the aromatic charm of the variety without being heavy or ponderous. It has a deliciously juicy texture and a delightfully delicate aroma of spice and fresh roses. It’s very refreshing to drink on its own and makes a perfect accompaniment to spicy Asian cuisine. “Best Buy” in Wine Enthusiast magazine.
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Villa Wolf Pinot Noir
Villa Wolf Pinot Noir is warm and medium-bodied, with a firm acid structure. Its dark cherry fruit is juicy, ripe, and forward, with a spicy mid-palate. Six months of barrique aging gives the wine a smoky depth and a nice touch of earthy tannins. This is a very grown-up Pinot Noir for the price, and it’s another excellent wine for everyday dining.
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Villa Wolf Pinot Noir Rosé
The Pfalz is a very warm and sunny region, often called “the Tuscany of Germany,” so all of the Pinot varieties do well here. The Villa Wolf Pinot Noir Rosé is a true rosé, made with a brief maceration before pressing to extract color. It is light and refreshing, with deliciously bright berry and fruit flavors and a clean, zippy finish. It’s perfect for holiday meals, especially when ham is involved.
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Villa Wolf Riesling Dry
Villa Wolf Riesling has the pure stone fruit and full, rich texture that are characteristic of the weathered sandstone soils in the Pfalz region. It is produced in an off-dry style that is traditional for this region. This makes it a very versatile food wine, working equally well with spicy dishes as well as lighter continental cuisine. As with all of the Villa Wolf wines, this is an excellent value. “Best Buy” in Wine Enthusiast magazine.
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